The switch was faulty. The owner said he would fix it later. I tried my engineering capabilities. By applying some force towards the right while switching on, it worked. Air-conditioning was necessary to keep the mosquito subdued.

The first two days, I walked around the streets in Vientiane, went into Internet cafés and small local food cafés. I tried the Laos national dish, Laap - it was good with Laos beer.

The streets were broad. There were no buildings higher than three floors. The traffic was mainly light motorcycles, carrying a whole family sometimes and second-hand vehicles imported from Thailand and Korea. Buses and cars had the same origin. The tourists in the city were mainly backpackers. Movements were slow; people spoke softly. A laid-back atmosphere, quiet and gentle. Apparently there is no crime or violence in the city. Even the dogs did not bark. The tuk-tuk drivers were passive in their sales pitch.

On the day of the ATF opening ceremony, the scheduled time for transport back to hotels was at 22.00. Some of us wanted to go back at 21.00. We felt agitated. (Why? If it was London or Stockholm we would not have done that. 22.00 means 22.00.)

One lady transport co-ordinator used her mobile phone, called her boss and many others, worked hard and arranged a minibus to take us back. Flexible!

A tourist is a guest. Actually, what he requires in the country he visits is a house — a guesthouse. More guesthouses should be built, of course with better facilities. No high-rise buildings. If a piano bar or swimming pool is required it can be built adjacent to the guesthouse. If more than one restaurant is required they can be built nearby. Grow horizontally, not vertically. Really, no high-rise hotels are required.

Considering that it was the first time, Laos Tourism organised ATF 2004 very well. Excellent. They were very friendly and flexible. If one is stressed at work, one should take a few days off, go to Vientiane and relax. Take it easy. Go into shops, markets and cafés. Mingle with local people. Feel nourished before getting back to work. On the last day when I returned to my guesthouse and switched on the bathroom light, I saw a visitor. A small spider on the somewhat wet floor looked perplexed, afraid, not knowing which way to go. I gave it some time to think and come to a decision. When the decision was made, I used an old newspaper to persuade, guide and escort it out. Live and let live.

"To be gentle is to be invincible," Lao Tsu said. I agree.